Start by emptying
rinse your holding tanks. If you run this while you are connected to a sewer connection, you’re all set. Otherwise, you’ll need to find a dump station.
Then you empty your freshwater tank. The leak is usually located near Freshwater fill location (not to be confused with the city water or hose connection). You may have to look under the trailer, in a closet or under a seat or a bed in the RV.
Although the reservoir of freshwater flows, take the form of your water heater. The most common type is a plastic plug. The best way to remove the plug is 7 / 8 “socket and extension. Other types of files may require different tools. Leave the plug yet. On the back of your water heater is the Bypass heater. Before going through your hot water, note the position of valves. There may be between one and three valves depending on the type of derivation. The type or quantity does not change all the valves on the opposite position.
If your water heater does not have a bypass, you’ll need to install a kit temporary diversion. This kit consists of a short tube and a couple of connectors. You’ll need to disconnect the two lines connected to hot water and connect them to each other with the kit. If it is an RV that you’ve decided to keep for a few years, you may want to consider installing a water heater kit permanent bypass.
Then check the underside of your trailer for two salient related pipe sticking down a few centimeters apart. If you have these drains are low point. If they are capped, remove the caps. If they are uncapped, so there is a faucet, you must open directly above them in a closet or under a seat. When you are finished close or reseal the lowest point in the sewers. A note of caution here, if the plugs are black iron or copper instead of plastic that you are getting the propane system instead of the lowest point in the sewers.
If your RV is not the weak point drains (many are not), it is recommended that you blow your system with an air compressor. You’ll need to plug a blow-out for that, you can get an RV dealer and for $ 4 or more. If the air compressor is regularly used for all types of air tools, be sure that the lubricator is bypassed or disabled. Set complessor 40 psi or use your pressure regulator of the water before making blowing. Now have someone hold the air nozzle on the blow plug until you go around to each valve and open the water stops flowing. Do not forget your toilet, shower, outdoor shower icemaker, etc.
Now you’ll need to pump non-toxic antifreeze through you, water pipes using your 12 water pump. Perhaps the easiest way to do this is to throw six OT 8 liters of antifreeze in your fresh water system. You can save most of these bypasssing by the water tank. Take a look at your water pump. If you are unsure wheer it, turn it on, open a tap and listen. If you’re lucky, your RV has a pump installed winter kit (rare). If not, you’ll need to disconnect the hose from the suction side of the pump and in most cases, simply connect a piece about three feet long, so 1 / 2 “pipe (you may need to buy 2 Mounting million).
Stick the suction hose directly into a pot of anti-freeze and turn the water pump. One by one, open the cold and then hot on each faucet until you have a steady stream of pink. Remember to remove the shower knob in the bathtub. Now do the toilet, outdoor shower and all other water devices you have. Finally open the floodgates to a little diversion, if the pink stuff coming out of hot water. Stop the pump when you’re done.
Place one cup of antifreeze in your sink and shower drains for winter. Clean up any antifreeze left in plastic or fiberglass bowls or shower because it can stain if left there during the winter. Do not forget to put the plug in the heater and put a ceiling on the connections of water outside to keep out bugs. Is that what you have done!
